It is a disgrace the connoisseur’s of the world do not unite to current an annual award to the Greatest Restaurant Of The Yr.
I felt this shortcoming relatively acutely some weeks in the past when a few of us gourmets – hearty eaters all the time seek advice from themselves as gourmets – had been sitting round drooling on our bosoms.
The favourite indoor sport of those that take pleasure in good meals is recalling Memorable Meals at well-known eateries.
I opined that Antoine’s of New Orleans needs to be ranked with the leaders due to its Steak Robespierre.
“Steak what?” demanded my incredulous companions, as discovered eaters are wont to do. “Who ever heard of that dish? You are placing us on.”
Stung to the short of my style buds, I asserted stoutly that Antoine’s concocted essentially the most delectable steak this aspect of the Pearly Gates; and, certainly, Robespierre, was its identify.
“Pooh,” they replied.
Thus it was that I set out on a quest for the recipe of Steak Robespierre.
None of our family cookbooks – already pledged to the Smithsonian Institute upon my loss of life – had a phrase about Antoine’s well-known steak.
Likewise the Public Library division of cookery.
Likewise the meals editors of three nice day by day newspapers.
Ultimately, in desperation, a protracted distance phone name to Antoine’s itself.
A dialog with the top chef.
How do mere mortals converse with males on whose shoulders rests the superior accountability of making ready Nice Meals?
“Please, oh august one, sir, my credentials as a Grasp Gourmand are in jeopardy as a result of sure neophytes have didn’t make your pilgrimage and are, subsequently, blind to the fun of Steak Robespierre.
“Would’st thou, on this extremity, deign to enlighten the depressing ones in Ohio who doubt my veracity and thy culinary talent?” Lengthy pause at different finish of wire.
“Sacre bleu!” the Nice One intoned. “Eet ees a secret recipe which I’ve sworn to offer solely to my son.”
“I’m desolate,” I replied. “I shall be drummed out of the Gourmand’s Membership and again to pork and beans each Saturday.”
“Weeeeel, in that case, I’ll inform you the substances – however not the portions. My son – you perceive?”
“Sure, Sure, Sure! However please to proceed, my three minutes are almost up.”
Right here, then, Mates of the Sauce Pan, are the supplies that go into Antoine’s distinctive Steak Robespierre. This can be a culinary scoop on this planet of meals journalism – different papers might copy.
Marinate complete, aged, beef tenderloins in purple wine and vinaigrette as much as 4 hours. Bake to medium uncommon.
Subsequent, make a small brown gravy from beef inventory and arrowroot. Add these substances: sauteed, diced bacon; scallions; purple wine; tomato juice; hen livers sautéed within the bacon drippings; sliced inexperienced olives; mushroom caps; and eventually, chunked veal candy breads properly boiled and cleaned.
Garnish with artichoke hearts marinated in olive oil, wine vinegar and dill.
If this description hasn’t began your digestive juices boiling, go away us and switch to the game web page.
For these of you who at the moment are faint with involuntary twitchings of the abdomen muscle tissue learn on at your individual danger.
The proof of the pudding – that’s, the steak – is within the consuming so the Mom of My Kids graciously agreed to arrange the dish for our doubting associates. Our associates, now keen, promised to encompass it with the identical viands that accompanied our first Steak Robespierre at Antoine’s, lo, these a few years in the past.
Oh, what a dinner it was. It will likely be a legend to be cherished by my youngsters.
First there was bouillabaisse soup with nice chunks of white fish, scallops, and eels. Boiled shrimp with sizzling tomato sauce. Salad Ponchartrain with sliced tomato marinated in purple wine, topped with finely chopped and blanched asparagus ideas, potato salad, Thousand Island dressing and black caviar.
Steak Robespierre, cloud gentle and dripping with that beautiful sauce.
“Soiled” rice steamed in beef consommé. Crackling Rose for the desk wine.
For desert, my specialty, Bananas Foster, flambé.
Cafe au lait.
Bon bons and blended roasted nuts. Panatella cigars and Southern Consolation for each girls and gents.
Nicely, sir, and Bob, you possibly can think about the impact this masterpiece had on my doubting associates. Already there’s a motion afoot in my connoisseur membership to offer me a Certificates of Appreciation, and perhaps make me Grand Guard Of The Skillet.
I hope I can bear the title with modesty.
October 10, 1973
Click on right here to see this text on Lindsey Williams’ web site